Travel Writer Hannah Cleallsmith reminisces on her trip to Cardiff and Barry, praising the inclusivity and uniqueness of both regions
In June 2024, after finishing my A-levels, I travelled to Barry in South Wales. I had been daydreaming about making this trip since lockdown when my obsession with the BBC sitcom Gavin and Stacey, filmed in Barry, began.
It was a long train journey from my home to Barry. Since the second change was in Cardiff, I decided to stop off there on both travel days. I accidentally chose the perfect June Saturday for the first stop: it was Cardiff Pride. The streets were full of families, with plenty of rainbow flags, and crowds of people sitting outside bars. I found a wonderful independent shop called The Queer Emporium, whose profits support the LGBTQ+ community. Pride is the busiest weekend of the year; nevertheless, I happily queued for a brownie and an iced coffee. The Pride parade started just as my next train left Cardiff, towards Barry.
The layout of Barry is easiest to understand if you draw a line between ‘Barry the town’ — amongst whose terraced houses sits Stacey’s house on Trinity Street — and the seaside part, Barry Island. I arrived at Barry Island station, opposite an amusement park.
The compact size of the town surprised me. There is an episode of Gavin and Stacey in which Gavin’s parents visit the Island, with the camera crew somehow making it look as big as Brighton. I chose to visit Barry before the heaviest summer peak period, so that I would be able to wander without encountering big crowds. Although I enjoy travelling and visiting new places by myself at any time of the year, I must admit that it is lovely to visit somewhere at a quieter time.
“I chose to visit Barry before the heaviest summer peak period, so that I would be able to wander without encountering big crowds.
My two nights in Barry were my first alone at a hotel. The booking websites offered a guest house near the seaside, a Premier Inn to the west of Barry (mainly serving Cardiff Airport), or a B&B to Barry’s east. Swayed by the promise of a ‘fabulous’ cooked breakfast, I chose the seaside guest house. It was only a short walk from the beach, so — enjoying the lighter evenings — I was able to stay out next to the sea knowing my lodging was close by.
I liked the non-seaside part of Barry, as it combines newer features with the unmistakable characteristics of both a Welsh town and a seaside one. Walking towards the filming location of Trinity Street, I came across a development called the Good Sheds: modern sheds which house gift shops, coffee, and fusion cuisine. In the very centre of Barry, I was pleased to find more recognisable businesses and a great variety of charity shops.
“Walking towards the filming location of Trinity Street, I came across a development called the Good Sheds: modern sheds which house gift shops, coffee, and fusion cuisine.
There was one unique moment at which I felt out of my depth in Barry. In an attempt to replicate the ending of Gavin and Stacey’s third series, I ordered cod and chips from the famous Boothy’s Fish & Chips (next to Nessa’s Slots), intending to eat it on the wall outside. However, a huge seagull ruined this moment: it flew towards me — terrifying — and stole the fish right out of my open takeaway box. A kind lady working in the shop helped me to secure a new piece of cod (at a slightly lower price), which I ate at a far less iconic spot so I could dodge the gulls.
So, I highly recommend you all visit Barry. It has an inclusive, progressive spirit. I just implore you to avoid the seagulls.
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