Trigger warning: contains reference to mental health issues and eating disorders.

Gucci is under fire as a catwalk model protested against the use of straitjackets in the fashion brand’s Spring/Summer 2020 show. The poignant symbol of Ayesha Tan Jones raising her palms on which they have written ‘MENTAL HEALTH IS NOT FASHION.’ The 26-year-old model who identifies as non-binary (Jones uses they/them pronouns) explained that they felt uncomfortable that a symbol of mental health had been trivialized by Gucci. This has sparked a wider debate in the fashion industry as we must consider whether mental health is exploited in our media.

At the centre of the controversy is the uncomfortable history tied to straitjackets. They originate in a time when people suffering from mental health issues were locked away in asylums and given lobotomies rather than provided with adequate care. In recent years, our society has begun redefining mental health and opening up the conversation. As we are moving towards a more compassionate understanding of mental health, it is regressive to be displaying straitjackets. Considering this, it is obvious why Jones, who has suffered from mental health issues, felt uneasy in the outfit.

Jones’ action also raised awareness to the prevalence of mental health issues in the LGBTQ+ community. Stonewall’s research suggests that 52% of British LGBTQ+ people experienced depression in 2018. With figures as large as these, it is no wonder that Jones felt passionate about their runway attire. This is likely not a publicity stunt because they have donated their catwalk fees to a mental health charity.

Moreover, the image of models in straitjackets is too close to home. Operating in a highly competitive industry focused on appearance, it is not uncommon for models to suffer from poor mental health. A 2017 study in The International Journal of Eating Disorders evidenced the link between anorexia and the modelling industry.

Throughout the fashion industry, poor mental health is common. In the last decade, prolific designers such as Alexander McQueen and Kate Spade took their own lives. It is in poor taste that the catwalk, the central image of designer fashion, was used to flaunt clothing linked to poor mental health without any recognition of this.

In response to the scandal, Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director, has explained the straitjackets as a creative metaphor. His vision was that the straitjacket symbolises the confinement of individuality, a confinement that can be broken through Gucci’s fashion. Gucci announced this in an Instagram post, stating that they used ‘blank-styled clothes to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression.’

It isn’t difficult to see what Michele intended. There is a viable argument that fashion is art and art pushes boundaries. The issue is that Gucci is not merely creating art for the sake of it, but are a brand seeking to boost profits. Whilst they have announced that they will not be selling the straitjackets, Gucci used them to attract attention to their clothes and attention typically leads to financial benefits.

Another factor to consider is that Gucci is particularly popular amongst Gen Z – think of how many hip-hop tracks name-drop the fashion label. Earlier this month, Gucci announced that they will be going carbon neutral to play their part in tackling our climate crisis. As this is in tune with Gen Z’s values, it is unfortunate that their recent runway was not.

This appropriation of mental health is a phenomenon that is not confined to the fashion industry. Last year, plenty of people blasted Ava Max’s catchy pop hit ‘Sweet but Psycho’ without considering the implications of the lyrics. In the same vein as Gucci’s runway, psychopathy is used in a trivial manner, joking about an over-protective girlfriend. As our society aims to spread mental health awareness, this is counterproductive.

Whilst Gucci’s choice is not objectively evil, it feels out of place in the current conversation surrounding mental health. On the contrary, fashion could spread awareness of mental health issues. For instance, George David Hodgson set up a fashion label named ‘Maison de Choup’ after experiencing a severe episode of OCD and anxiety. This brand sells clothing such as a t-shirt sporting ‘WARRIOR NOT WORRIER’ and donates 25% of each purchase to Young Minds Charity.

At the forefront of the fashion industry, Gucci hold responsibility for setting trends that will trickle onto our high streets. Whilst the straitjackets may be an artistic choice, it is our choice to decide whether we will let this slide or agree with Jones that mental health is not, and will never be, fashion.

If you or someone you know may be affected by the content of this article, call Samaritans at 116 123 or email jo@samaritans.org.