Escaping the City to… Wolverhampton

Whilst technically a different city to Birmingham, Wolverhampton is only a cheap and quick train (or alternatively the tram) ride away from New Street station and offers a quieter urban experience compared to its larger, bustling neighbour. After a stressful week of university, escaping Selly Oak was just what I needed and when I saw a TikTok video about the Pop Art exhibition at Wolverhampton Art Gallery, I decided to spend a Saturday afternoon in a new city. I was even more intrigued by what I would be greeted with as much of the research I did to plan my day painted the city in a less than favourable light.

Upon arrival at the train station decked out in the city’s iconic orange and black hues, you are greeted by impressive industrial architecture as you make your way to the city centre, as well as leftover Halloween decorations mixed with twinkling Christmas lights. Historically, Wolverhampton was a market town which produced wool, and despite having undergone regeneration since, many of the buildings date back to the Victorian era. One venue with a vibrant political and entertainment past is the Grand Theatre, which is the only remaining traditional theatre in the Black Country and has been extended multiple times to stage larger travelling shows and in-house productions. Further into the city centre, you can find two shopping centres and rows of streets filled with favourite high street chains as well as some pretty good charity shops.

Historically, Wolverhampton was a market town which produced wool, and despite having undergone regeneration since, many of the buildings date back to the Victorian era

Most of the city’s sights are located close to each other; St Peter’s church is encased by beautiful gardens, an interesting history trail and unique sculptures. If you walk about the perimeter, you will also discover the Lady Wulfrun statue which has been transformed into a memorial for the late, local singer Liam Payne. Currently adorned with heartfelt letters, balloons and flowers, Wulfruna is the city’s 10th century namesake and founder of the church.

This central area is also the location of the Wolverhampton Art Gallery; a grand limestone building with columns and sculptures decorating the façade to represent arts and crafts. I was taken aback by the rooms of 300 years’ worth of artworks. A mixture of historic pieces and modern paintings fill the Georgian and Victorian rooms with reputable names like Gainsborough and Wright. There is also a room centred around colonial artefacts and local trade items like enamels, which illustrate the complex history of the city. I especially enjoyed the paintings of areas in the West Midlands by local artists throughout history, as well as the grand staircase which hosts a mix of abstract sculptures, such as a head made entirely out of clothes hangers, and more vibrant paintings. But the main attraction and reason why I’d encourage everyone to visit the gallery is the renowned Pop Art exhibition, the largest collections in the country outside of London and one of the finest in Europe.

This hidden gem boasts works by iconic artists like Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and David Hockney, and tells the story of how popular culture and mass media marketing influenced 20th century art, through a political and queer lens. Overall, I spent a very enjoyable couple of hours roaming around the diverse gallery, which is free. I got to see much more than I bargained for, in addition to the friendly staff, a pleasant gift shop and popular café, Glaze. Whilst large parts of the Birmingham Gallery remain closed and the Barber Institute can only be visited so many times, I highly recommend making the short trip to Wolverhampton to visit the gallery, whether you are an art novice or expert.

I especially enjoyed the paintings of areas in the West Midlands by local artists throughout history, as well as the grand staircase which hosts a mix of abstract sculptures

Alongside being a thriving centre for arts and entertainment, Wolverhampton offers more cultural diversity through sports. Wolverhampton Wanderers F.C. is one of the oldest football teams in the world, founded in 1888 as one of the original members of the football league. This legacy can be explored on a stadium tour or visit to the club museum, but I opted to attend a match in the 32,000 capacity Molineux Stadium, for a Premier League matchday against Crystal Palace, to soak in the atmosphere. The stadium is centrally located in the city and tickets are relatively cheap. Although not many Villa fans would take me up on this advice, Wolves provided a fun gameday filled with a light show, thrilling comeback on the pitch and affordable refreshments that I recommend for any football fan. All throughout the day I’d spotted supporters in orange shirts dotted around the city, and a large part of the city’s identity is certainly built around the football team.

There are more areas of Wolverhampton to explore, such as the vast West Park located next to the football stadium, as well as many National Trust houses like Wightwick Manor on the outskirts of the city, which is home to a collection of William Morris art and design, further reflecting the regional culture and heritage. But, the arts, shopping and sport I’d been offered by an afternoon in Wolverhampton was enough, with the city providing something for everyone and providing a smaller but just as vibrant landscape to Birmingham.

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