Content Warning: Discussion of racism and cultural appropriation which may be upsetting for some readers

It only takes one scroll, one glimpse or one quick Google search to see how many forms, themes, or practices that belong to different cultural groups have been stolen and capitalised on by the Western eye. This issue is not something recent – in particular, the debate surrounding the concern of cultural appropriation; or more relevantly the Marxist idea of class appropriation, had been expressed by Black, Harlem Renaissance authors and artists in the USA who were concerned with how far African American voices and traditions were being misrepresented and reclaimed. Yet it was not until 2017 that the Oxford English Dictionary added the term ‘cultural appropriation’ to their database, highlighting the lack of attention the issue has received in public and popular debate, even though it is as prevalent as ever. It is just plain wrong that still, in 2021, the appropriation of a culture or identity is more often than not excused and happening a lot more than ever.

Much more recently, on the popular social media app TikTok, the trend of appropriating the cultural practice of Mehndi, known by the Western name as Henna, has been made into yet another god-awful trend to create the appearance of temporary faux freckles. Historically, the practice of Mehndi had originated from India, Africa, and the Middle East, and is a form of body art that has been practised for more than 4,000 years, typically used on a person’s body, as well as their hair or even their nails. It is important to understand that to use Mehndi for a non-ceremonial purpose (a purpose that is far from the traditional use), is to play a direct role in perpetuating the cycle of cultural appropriation. If that wasn’t enough damage – the popular New York-based hairstylist known as Brad Mondo published a video entitled ‘Pro Hairdresser Tries Henna Hair Dye For The First Time’, where he described the appearance of Mehndi as ‘poop-like’ and even as ‘sh**’, topping it off with his great view of it as ‘sketchy’. Though at the beginning Mondo does state he does not know much about Mehndi, it does not excuse his utter contempt and disregard for my culture. This bothers me. It bothers me that many of my cultural practices as a South Asian woman are to be used and discarded as they come and go, simply to be criticised, and mocked, while there are very real implications for BAME groups. 

Additionally, the trend of ‘Blackfishing’ is significant – a term that was coined by Wanna Thompson in a viral Twitter thread – it was created in response to describe the alarmingly increasing number of white female influencers who use cosmetics to appear Black or racially ambiguous, including some notable celebrities such as Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner. This isn’t restricted to appearance either, as the rise of the ‘Blaccent’ and the use of African American Vernacular English (AAVE), as exemplified by celebrities such as Iggy Azalea, Awkwafina, and Ariana Grande, has sprung some debate, too. In prioritising what may be deemed the desirable traits of Blackness, it is nothing short of an insult, particularly when Black and Brown people are discriminated against and ostracised frequently in educational and professional settings for wearing and showcasing the emblems of their culture. It doesn’t stop there – even something as commonplace as Chai in popular shops like Starbucks or Costa Coffee has been commercialised, demonstrating that the tokenisation and exoticisation of our culture is a real issue in society. 

If anything, I just find it extremely uncomfortable and demeaning as to how these trends and influencers continue to remain popular. Though some people would argue that cultural appropriation is merely a sign of appreciation or something to be neutrally deemed as influence, and albeit, some people are just plain ignorant but it is not really an excuse. To do and be better, you must recognise the intention and impact behind your actions and others. It is okay to be curious and to ask respectful questions. It is just not okay to rely upon the aesthetic of our culture and capitalise off it, while simultaneously displaying a clear unwillingness to engage with the real stigmatisation of BAME groups. 

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