Last August, I visited the Bristol Hot Air Balloon Fiesta – a four-day, non-ticketed event with free admission which attracts thousands of revellers every summer. 

First on our agenda was to explore the inner city, home to the modern shopping centre Cabot Circus and an old town with a sprawling covered market. We visited a craft beer bar which happened to be on a barge on the river, itself lined with restaurants and bars which twinkle to life after sunset. We took a bracing walk up Cabot Tower, from the top of which we took in the vast cityscape. We noticed that the wind was picking up, and overheard someone behind us: “The festival people have just confirmed that it’s too windy for the balloons to take off tonight”.

We were disappointed, as the reason for our visit was primarily to see the hot air balloons taking off over Clifton Suspension Bridge – an iconic image which I had seen many times in photos, but never in the flesh. Regardless of the weather forecast, we took the hour-long trek up to the affluent suburb of Clifton to cross the bridge, as the festival takes place in a grassy valley on the other side. If you choose to walk instead of driving or taking the bus, you definitely need sensible shoes – I lost count of the muddy fields we trooped across as part of a snaking queue of people heading for the valley. 

It is impossible to truly appreciate the size of hot air balloons without seeing them at close range

The festival itself was lively and family-oriented, with fairground rides and endless food and drink stalls. We bought some overpriced pizza slices, quickly taking note of how everyone around us had brought their own Tesco picnics with them. Thousands of people set up camp in the field around a vast, fenced-off arena, in which a few balloons were being inflated as we arrived. It is impossible to truly appreciate the size of hot air balloons without seeing them at close range.

During the daytime Fiesta, you can catch all manner of events such as remote-control plane displays and ‘inflation races’ – flight teams competing to get their balloon stood upright in the shortest time. Weather permitting, there are two ‘mass ascents’ per day, in which the balloons take off. The organisers announce whether or not the weather is suitable for balloon flight by lighting either a green or red smoke torch. As we had expected given the rising wind and what we had overheard earlier at Cabot Tower, red smoke signalled that the evening’s mass ascent was cancelled. However, the Night Glow would still go ahead – a mesmerising, choreographed show in which all of the attending balloons are inflated in rows, and illuminated in time to music. 

A mesmerising, choreographed show in which all of the attending balloons are inflated in rows, and illuminated in time to music

The next day we explored more of Bristol’s attractions: the Harbourside Walk, the aquarium, as well as the free museum and art gallery. We kept an eagle eye on the weather forecast, which appeared more promising than the previous day. The evening came around and we repeated the hike through the fields, this time in summer evening sunshine. After a tense hour in which the organisers deliberated in a tent, goaded on by the commentary box, the crowd erupted in celebration when green smoke descended over the valley. Finally, we would get to see what we came for.

I understand why it is an annual summer tradition for thousands of people, given the majesty of vast balloons in flight

The mass ascent was a joyful experience, with the crowd cheering and waving to the dedicated flight crew of each balloon as they took off from the ground. It was obvious that this event was the highlight of the year for these crews, for whom ballooning is their full-time job. This time, we brought our picnic and watched the balloons disappear into the serene summer evening.

I managed to rack up over 60,000 steps across the weekend, but the trip is just as possible should you wish to make use of public transport and Uber. The event is informal, free to attend and entirely unique. I understand why it is an annual summer tradition for thousands of people, given the majesty of vast balloons in flight, a sight which I may try to catch again this August. 

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