Sophie Webb provides a candid and informative account of her hiking experiences in two of California’s most famous national parks
This summer, I was lucky enough to visit two of the most famous National Parks of central California: Yosemite and Sequoia National Park.
The day we spent at Yosemite was the first day of summer, so the park’s many shades of green were vivid under the cloudless skies. We had chosen a great time to visit, waiting ten minutes to drive through the welcome checkpoint. At the height of summer season in July and August, this wait can reach highs of two to three hours.
We paid the entry fee – $35 for four people – and received our ticket which was valid for re-entry for seven days. The extremely friendly park ranger provided us with a map. Once through the checkpoint, we drove the winding roads into the main body of the park, crossing bridges over roaring creeks and sailing past wooden cabins, vintage motels and abandoned caravans.
The park is only accessible by car or bus. Within Yosemite, there are various roads which lead to car parks from which you can start your hike. The map informed us that several roads were closed for maintenance, and so some of the park was not available to visit. What became obvious immediately was how busy the park was, and this wasn’t even the height of the season – at each
beauty spot we encountered, it was near impossible to find a parking space. We couldn’t get anywhere near the visitors’ centre: cars were noisily navigating around each other, which definitely disrupted the peaceful ambience somewhat, reminding me that Yosemite is a tourist destination first, a natural wonder second.
As soon as we were able to find a parking space, we hit the trails. The pathways were signposted with estimates of how many miles each trail continued for. I was surprised at how nowhere appeared to be off-limits; I had expected to see signs everywhere informing us where we could and couldn’t walk, but as it happened, we could go wherever we wanted. Tourists were wandering off the pathways to climb down rock falls, paddle in streams or disappear into the trees. One of us spoke to an older American man who had “lost his friend” somewhere in the undergrowth; we didn’t find out what happened to him. Soaring above the
forest were the vast mountains, including Half Dome. My personal highlight of the park was the majestic Bridalveil waterfall, up a short and very accessible trail.
A couple of hours drive south is Sequoia National Park, which is smaller and quieter. This time, we got to the visitors’ centre, where we learnt about the Native American history of the land, as well as the park’s efforts to save indigenous animal, insect and plant species. Like at Yosemite, much of Sequoia was closed off for essential maintenance during the off-season, which unfortunately meant that we were unable to visit the iconic sequoia trees, wide enough that roads pass through them. I had been looking forward to this aspect the most, but the park was still worth visiting despite its reduced operations.
As someone whose bear knowledge derives from Cocaine Bear (2023), I was wary of encountering one, closely scrutinising any movements I saw in the foliage. Black bears, the only type of bear that lives in California, dwell in the parks. The more seasoned visitors around us, however, did not seem remotely on edge: children were playing, parents were carrying young babies, families
were camping in tents and having picnics. The only indication that we needed to be vigilant were the numerous WARNING: BEARS signposts, as well as the rubbish bins in the picnic areas, which had heavy lids that you opened and closed using a latch so that bears wouldn’t come sniffing.
Your National Park essentials need to be snacks and cold drinks, making sure that your snacks are hidden away. You also need appropriate clothes, shoes, first aid and copious sunscreen for walking and hiking in hot weather. Watch out for bears, of course – but most of all, enjoy near-complete immersion in a breathtaking realm of natural beauty, embracing the sights and sounds of the
American outdoors.
Read more US travel articles here:
https://www.redbrick.me/the-grand-canyon/
https://www.redbrick.me/72-hours-in-nyc-during-the-off-season/
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