Bleached hair, skin tanning and platform boots. Gyaru fashion is known across the globe as one of the most standout-ish subcultures to emerge from the city of Tokyo. It gives a stylish edge to fashion that is not present in most other styles sans the recent Y2K aesthetic. Being a product of the Shibuya district, the Gyaru headquarters was the Shibuya 109 fashion mall since the early 90s. However, in today’s climate the face of Gyaru has changed significantly from the heavily tanned Ganguro of the new millennium. The acknowledgement of the last ten years of the fashion by international media is severely lacking now that the current Gyaru do not appeal to the media-created folk-devil image that plagued the fashion, leaving some to even believe that there are no more Gyaru.

Gyaru is defined in the Aesthetics Wiki as ‘tanned skin, big hair, and rebellious outfits’ with a list of outdated trends that emerged over its reign and a picture of circa 2008 Tsubasa Masuwaka in the 80s retro-style blue eyeliner that was popularised by herself and Kaoru Watanabe at the time. As a long-time follower of this fashion, I want to give the current era the love it deserves. Times have moved on from ten years ago, and although the older styles are missed, there is a lot is happening today that does not get enough attention.

Make-up

The most important feature of Gyaru is their make-up. As well as the circle lenses that can change the colour and increase the size of the iris, winged eyeliner is often extended to further create an enlarged eye effect. Most extend their eyeliner downwards to create a ‘droopy’ eye effect like nuts model 8467 (@8467_0) while others prefer to flick it upwards to create a ‘cat’ eye such as model Suzuki ‘Manya’ Manami (@x.manya.x). Some even do an extreme combination of both such as egg’s Momoa (@momoa.seto). The looks have always been completed with false eyelashes however, there is an increase of Gyaru transferring to eyelash extensions that can be maintained a lot easier. 

Eye shape is such an important feature of Gyaru that not mastering the make-up alone is enough for one to not be recognisable as a follower of the style. My personal favourite is egg’s Kiiripu’s (@kyiiripu.friedegg) make-up as she not only wears three pairs of eyelashes like the old-school Gyaru from 2004-2012 but she also has a perfect face and nose contour with some of the prettiest range of blushers I have seen in a while. I personally find that Kiiripu’s style appeals to Gyaru from all eras as her overall style cannot be directly linked to one specific era as she incorporates her favourite trends and makes them her own.

Clothes

Second to their make-up is the fashion. Gyaru does not follow one singular aesthetic however, what can be seen in this current era are crop-tops, a resurgence of platform shoes and boots, denim everything and almost always visible shoulders. Colours tend to be monochrome with the occasional pinks, browns and khaki greens with the signature blue of all the denim. Animal print has always been a staple in Gyaru style and as of last year, there has been an increase of leather and snake-print accents. Shoes over the past year have mostly been black leather platform boots and platform trainers reminiscent of the Buffalo or Fila. Boots that reach over the knee were seen a lot during the winter months as many girls still stuck to wearing shorts. I think Maaya (@maaya___0220) from nuts’ style specifically epitomises current trends. Maaya is a big fan of flared jeans, crop tops and hoodies, bringing a tomboy-ish edge to her style.

Accessories 

Jewellery is also associated with the style and many tend to stick to gold hoop earrings and chain necklaces. Most Gyaru sport more than just two lobe piercings and it is common to see additional lobes, helix piercings and sometimes a tongue or nose ring at the least. Clothes are also accented with chains on belts of jeans or open shoulders. I would say Izumi Mana (@izumana19890629) is a great example of not only a Gyaru who tattoos heavily but someone who knows how to accessorise. She always poses with cross earrings, hoops, multiple facial piercings and sunglasses and necklaces. 

Lastly, are the nails. Gyaru always have their nails manicured. While the members of a group dedicated to reviving the extremist of Gyaru style Black Diamond went viral a few years ago for their lavishly decorated nails, most Gyaru stick to nails that are colourful rather than long. As Japanese nail salons often give discounts to regular customers, most Gyaru get their nails done with a particular theme once a month. Any of the Carry (@nailcarry_ikebukuro) stores on Instagram display whatever trends there are for nails. I have seen a lot of almond-shaped nails with cow prints and jewels this year.

Evolution

Today’s Gyaru can be found on Instagram by looking at the #ギャル or #gal tags. They are easily identifiable by their dyed hair, circle lenses and long eyelash extensions. Most of the historic magazines featuring the fashion that were followed faithfully by Gyaru across Japan have managed to survive into 2021 by moving online. Titles such as egg and nuts (no, not that Nuts!) both appeal to the wider demographic of Gyaru with egg being aimed at girls 20 and under and nuts to women in their 20s. Older Gyaru who are 25 and above can find a style that appeals to their lifestyle in Koakuma or Ane Ageha magazines that show that even as you age, you can always follow Gyaru. In Japan, jobs tend to require that workers look as natural as possible which goes against everything that Gyaru stands for. These magazines for an older audience are aware of this and so introduce a medium between working life and the fashion.

Some berate the looks of girls who use the hashtags (particularly the first one) as they do not look like the Gyaru of the previous eras. The hair is viewed by some of those in Black Diamond and international followers of the style as not as dyed enough, the tans not dark enough and the clothes not colourful enough to even associate with Gyaru despite this era of Gyaru looking very close to where it was at it beginning. Gyaru does not have to be a competition of who stands out the most as it is first and foremost and expression of one’s personal style. The original Gyaru of the mid-90s did not always tan, dye their hair nor were circle lenses a must-have feature of the make-up. Even 10 years ago, Gyaru looked completely different to their predecessors as they would spend hours spraying and teasing their hair, and wear layers upon layers of accessories.

As with any style, Gyaru has changed its face to adapt to a whole new era with multiple generations of young people creating styles that adhere to their tastes. Although Gyaru may look different to ten years ago, its new face should be accepted. As model Saaya says, to not be swayed by anyone else’s negative conceptions of you and your style is the core mindset that Gyaru have. That is why I cannot take it seriously whenever anyone over 25, especially those who are not from Japan, complain about the fact that the style is doing what it always has done: evolve. 

When Gyaru was created, it was almost exclusively followed by, and controlled by, high-school and middle-school girls aged up to 20. Once a girl reaches 20 in Japan, she is considered an adult and expected to adapt to society. Only the bravest, self-employed and those who worked in fashion industries often carried on the style in the 90s and early 00s. However, allowing Gyaru to age and adapt has meant that those who were originally Gyaru as teenagers when the style started in the 90s have now been able to age and continue Gyaru in a way that does not feel juvenile to them as they approach 40. 

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