Travel Editor Caitlin McGraw captures a Christmas spent in the Danish capital, appreciating the national traditions and festive attractions
Last year, I spent Christmas in Copenhagen with my family, which was a world away from our usual traditional home affair. Experiencing the festive period in a different country was a unique way to explore a new city after the Christmas markets had been packed away and the crowds thinned. Here are my recommendations for celebrating Christmas in Copenhagen, by embracing traditions and braving the cold.
Day 1
We started the trip at the ornately decorated, towering tree outside Copenhagen City Hall, a grand redbrick building with a tower perfect for panoramic views of this historic city. From here, we walked along the famous canals and took in the neutral-toned houses dusted with snow, until we found ourselves outside of the Royal Copenhagen porcelain shop. Whilst this may sound like a place for the older crowd, I highly recommend going inside the store as it is famous for intricate Christmas table layouts, ranging from cute and kitschy homeware to abstract and modern design fit for a feast. As the prices are steep, you may then prefer to wander around the shops on Strøget to pick up any last-minute gifts and admire the dangling light decorations. When in Copenhagen, you must visit the original Lego stores to see the models of local attractions, with plenty dotted around the city centre. If you need to rest your legs and warm your cheeks, I recommend cake and coffee at the punnily named ‘Cakenhagen’, which specialises in special occasions and seasonal recipes. After a day of exploring and shopping, we made our way to Tivoli Gardens. This place is popular for good reason, and whilst we didn’t pay extra to go on the rides, walking the perimeter of the park to admire the twinkling lights adorning buildings and weeping willows reflected in the ink-black water, as well as the iconic pagoda, is just as satisfying. There are also many pop-up cabins selling everything from Scandinavian decorations to warming drinks. Make sure to head to the lake to see the official light show accompanied by classic Christmas tunes, before ending the night with food from the nearby Tivoli Food Court which serves takeaway foods from around the world.
We walked along the famous canals and took in the neutral-toned houses dusted with snow, until we found ourselves outside of the Royal Copenhagen porcelain shop
Day 2
Danes celebrate Christmas on the 24th December, so the city was quieter on this day and the weather was bleaker. After a slow morning and delicious breakfast at our hotel, Andersen Boutique Hotel (which I highly recommend for a treat!), we wrapped up warm and made our way to Rosenborg Castle. A Renaissance palace with symmetrical spires located in the King’s Garden, this spot is in a peaceful area of the city, lined with uniform trees, surrounded by a moat and home to a beautiful rose garden. It is located close to the Copenhagen Lakes, which we then circled in a rousing walk, only occasionally being passed by festive joggers. The Lakes are a little-known way to explore the cool districts of Østerbro and Nørrebro, and there are plenty of coffee shops along the way to take a pit-stop at. Once the cold became too much, we returned to our hotel to join the rest of the country in watching Disney cartoons on TV, and then exchanged gifts. Doing this a day early felt strange but it was fun to try something new! Later that evening, us creatures of habit returned to Tivoli Food Court to try different cuisine for dinner, and also watch the mind-blowing firework show free of charge. Watching the blinding sparks fill the sky was the perfect way to end the day and they are a must-see at Tivoli.
A Renaissance palace with symmetrical spires located in the King’s Garden, this spot is in a peaceful area of the city, lined with uniform trees, surrounded by a moat and home to a beautiful rose garden
Day 3
We saved the most iconic attractions for the 25th December, which was coincidentally my 21th birthday. We followed the festive heart decorations under dazzling blue skies to Nyhavn, the famous canals lined with brightly coloured terraced houses. No words can do this place justice, and I believe it is worth the hype seeing the vibrant red roofs glow in person, especially on a sunny day. Take time to walk along the banks, pose on the bridge for an insta-worthy photo and maybe even take a boat tour through the city’s waterways. It is worth the money to squeeze under low bridges, marvel at even more dusty blue and terracotta red houses, and even see the Little Mermaid statue in her natural habit in a quick and easy way. The square before Nyhavn, Kongens Nytorv is also home to some of the most extravagant Christmas decorations, with the hotels twinkling with masses of lights, guarded by Nutcracker statues and lined with menacing icicles.
We followed the festive heart decorations under dazzling blue skies to Nyhavn, the famous canals lined with brightly coloured terraced houses
Next, we headed to see some of Copenhagen’s oldest political buildings, including the Christianborg and Amalienborg Palaces which are home to the Danish Parliament and Royal Family respectively (no one is there at Christmas time). Both are impressive from the outside, with many windows characteristic of a lot of Copenhagen’s architecture, adorned with the red and white national flag. Seeing the royal guards is reminiscent of Buckingham Palace. From the royal courtyard, the spectacular domed roof of Frederick’s Church can be spied, which I really recommend walking to and exploring inside to observe the intricate ceiling, marble walls and gold adornments whilst sitting peacefully. After a long day of walking around the city, a nice dinner was needed and we celebrated at Høst, which is a Nordic fine dining location offering a unique food experience of local flavours like seafood and wine, perfect for special occasions due to the attentive service, complimentary courses and moody atmosphere.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I will always remember the Christmas I spent in Copenhagen and I recommend making new traditions by spending the festive period or a national holiday in a different country at least once in your life. There is something extra special about the festive touches around the city and quieter streets, paired with the seasonal cuisine and chilly weather. But the city is always beautiful, and the attractions can be enjoyed any time of the year, as I visited more times during my year abroad and discovered lots of things to love about Copenhagen either on a budget or for an all-out occasion.
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